local Eats

Buona Notte gets inspiration, education from local wineries

Story and photos by Laurel Brown

In 2016, a new winery in the Gorge bottled its very first wines and has been making a name ever since.
A small scale winery in Cascade Locks, Buona Notte Wines, boasts new and traditional takes on Italian wines thanks to the wide range of agriculture and grape varietals in the area.
Started by Graham Markel, Buona Notte Wines operates out of a warehouse space in Cascade Locks split with Son of Man Cider. Originally from Boulder, Colorado, Markel comes from a family with a deep love for food and wine — his mother taught cooking schools in Italy for many years, and it wasn’t long before he shared that love.
Buona Notte produces around 3,000 cases per year and the name is Italian for “good night,” which Markel explained plays into his motto for the business: Good food, good friends, good wine, good night. They also offer a wine club with perks such as on-site tastings during wine package pick-up parties.
“They’re a lot of fun for our club members, and I enjoy getting to know the people who drink the wine,” he said.
Tastings at Buona Notte are more laid back, as Markel chooses high-quality meats and cheeses paired with seasonal fruits and about six bottles of wine to curate a personal tasting experience.
“If someone mentions a favorite type of wine or interest in a specific grape, I’ll open that wine instead of having a set-in-stone menu,” Markel said.
From roughly age 9 until 15, his mother taught in Tuscany just outside of Florence. There, Markel lived and attended school, spending most of his middle school years in Italy. He enjoyed the cultural education, too, and at 21 he started working at The Kitchen in Boulder, where he took classes to expand his knowledge of food, bartending and craft beverages.
He earned a bachelor of fine arts in writing and literature while working at The Kitchen and graduated in 2011 from Naropa University’s Jack Kerouac School of Disembodied Poetics. After college, he got what he thought was an interim job picking grapes at Antica Terra, a winery in Willamette Valley. Markel worked closely with Maggie Harrison from Antica Terra and later Master Sommelier Nate Ready from Hiyu Wine Farm. Each was supportive of Markel’s path, teaching him the craft and instilling confidence in his own visions.
After four weeks working at Hiyu Wine Farm in Hood River, he knew he wanted to start his own winery. He worked there about four years and was named their assistant wine maker, and helped on the farm, vineyard and tasting room.
“I loved working with both Nate and Maggie. It was my goal and education path and I’m so grateful for everything they’ve done and taught me,” Markel said.
As he started forming a plan for his own winery, Markel felt drawn to making low-intervention style wines. He also wanted to lean on the Italian culture that had formed so much of his childhood, finding inspiration from his years there and trips back to visit. “I like vineyards and grapes that speak for themselves without much added or manipulated,” he said.

Their first year, in 2016, Markel made roughly 300 cases of wine at Hiyu, blending his style with theirs.
“I had to find what my voice was going to be in it all. I learned so much about technique and details from [Nate and Maggie], like how to find your own beauty within winemaking and seeking a connection to the land. That is so important,” said Markel.
In addition to crafting a Sangiovese with grapes from a vineyard in The Dalles, he felt drawn to dabbling in vermouths when he first started out. Markel was enthralled with the microclimates offered in the Columbia Gorge that create such a wide range of agriculture, soils, and produce. From volcanic ground to the Missoula Flood path, countless geological events over history have created everything from high desert to lush alpine growing environments.
“The Gorge has nationally-amazing wine growing that needs to be pushed to other markets and shared with more people,” he said. Traveling the world and talking with peers about the crafting process, the business side, and most importantly the agriculture of wine is one way Markel hopes to share the Gorge’s grape-growing with the world.
“Eventually I plan to buy my own land and explore all the possibilities like blending varietals. The microclimates here are amazing for growing all kinds of grapes and produce,” Markel said. For now, he is thankful for the vineyard farmers, owners and staff for all they do.
“Their work is integral and I’m very grateful for each of them. They have become some of the most meaningful relationships in my life and are very much a part of the fun things we do. Without them I wouldn’t be able to make great wine,” said Markel.
Buona Notte strives for food-friendly, pairing-oriented wines with simple, natural processes and Italian inspiration. Their packaging is eco-friendly, with glass bottles coming from recycling in Portland and Seattle as well as 50% hemp post-conservation waste labels, natural cork, and local beeswax to seal the bottles.
Tastings and wine club offers are available online, and Instagram is a great way to get more information about the winery (@buonanottewines).
For beautiful views of the Gorge cliffs and the Columbia River, along with expertly crafted wines, check out Buona Notte and explore all that they have to offer.